Smooth Fiberglass Entry Door Slab (2 Panel)

The Pease Fiberglass Door. Replace just your door slab and keep your existing jambs and brickmold. A perfect replacement for Pease (carbon & steel) doors as well as most entry doors by Stanley, Taylor, Mastercraft, Perma Door, Castlegate, Masonite, Therma Tru, Jeld-Wen, Plastpro, and many others. Please make sure to check your measurements (door height, width, and thickness) and feel free to contact us with any measurement or fit questions.

Modern 2 panel style looks great with or without glass. Additional glass options can be found in our door glass section. This door also has an ideal panel configuration for a pet door to be installed in lower panel.

Sizes & Measurements:

Style: 2 Panel

31.75" x 79":

• Slab width: 31.75" (referred to nominally as a 32", 2/8, or 2-foot-8-inch-wide door)
• Slab height: 79.0" (referred to nominally as an 80" or 6' 8" tall panel)
• Panel Thickness: 1.75"
• Select 2 Panel (no cut out), With Glass: Clear 1 Lite (installed), or Without Glass: 23" x 37" Cut Out (takes standard Half Lite glass in our door glass section)

35.75" x 79":

• Slab width: 35.75" (referred to nominally as a 36", 3/0, or 3-foot-0-inch-wide door)
• Slab height: 79.0" (referred to nominally as an 80" or 6' 8" tall panel)
• Panel Thickness: 1.75"
• Select 2 Panel (no cut out), With Glass: Clear 1 Lite (installed), or Without Glass: 23" x 37" Cut Out (takes standard Half Lite glass in our door glass section)

Prep & other specifications:

• Select either No Hinge or Lock Prep or Standard Hinge & Lock Prep:
• No Hinge or Lock Prep: allows for lock placement as desired and hinge side edge unfinished and can be mortised for hinge placements as needed
• PEASE Standard Hinge & Lock Prep 79" tall doors:
• Hinge mortise (cut out) 6.5" from top of door to top of first hinge, 37.5" to top of second hinge, 68.5" to top of bottom hinge
• Tubular lock prep comes for 2 3/8" backset lockset and means the door will have two 2.125" holes 5.5" apart, each hole 2 3/8" from the center of the hole to the edge of the door, with the top hole center 40.375" from the top edge of the door
• Trimming: Can trim up to 2 inches off bottom, then we recommend sealing thoroughly with caulking and capping with a U-style doorsweep. Sides and top are not trimmable. This is a replacement for most entry doors (front, kitchen, side, garage/man door, etc.) and can also often be trimmed and used as a replacement for patio doors which are typically shorter in height (contact us to discuss if you need a door that requires more than 2 inches of trimming off bottom)

• Primed white finish, see our paint category to purchase paint
• Highest quality smooth fiberglass for easy finishing & durability
• Composite bottom edge to resist moisture/rotting
• Comes with a drive-on sweep with 7/8" between darts
• Wood edge door system for ease of installation and clean look
• Reinforced 11.75" pine lock block for added security
• High density polyurethane insulation for maximum thermal efficiency

1. Before finishing, remove existing door and place onto the new door slab. We recommend placing the existing door slab onto a sawhorse or folding plastic table (just not a surface that could scratch or damage the door). If the door came in a cardboard box it can serve as a nice worksurface to protect the door.

2. Check that the new door width, height, and thickness match the existing door. If you need to trim the door height (up to about 2" is OK), we recommend trimming off the bottom and then use a U style door sweep to seal up the unfinished edge. Trimming the width is a little trickier and you really shouldn't take more than about 1/8" off each side. Best option here is to use a planer tool.

3. Trace hinges onto new door by aligning the existing door on top of new door and tracing with a pencil. Mark each hinge top, bottom, and how far into the door (towards the outside) the hinge needs to seat. We recommend using a combination square to ensure you get the measurements as accurate as possible. If needed, you can also trace the lock bore (holes for the lock) onto the new door as well.

4. Next create the mortise slot for the hinges on new door. We recommend using a utility knife to score the edges of where the hinge will sit. Then, using either a chisel or router, remove the wood and create the recess for each of the hinges.

5. Next we recommend turning the door onto the lock edge so the hinge edge is facing to the sky. Place hinges to their mortise slots and pre-drill hinge holes using a 1/8" or 1/16" drill bit.

6. Screw hinges to the door. We recommend using 2-3" long screws for the top 2 holes on the top hinge. This will help the door fight against gravity and stay square/operating smoothly for longer.

7. Hang the door into the opening. This is a 2-3 person job, depending on how heavy the door is. It can help to use rags or a block of wood to hold the door into position.

Option a: Without removing hinge pins - start by screwing the top hole of the top hinge in first and work your way down.

Option b: Removable hinge pins. If your hinges have removable pins, you can screw one half of each hinge to the door and the other into the jamb, align the door into the opening such that the hinges fit back together and then you can drop the pins back in.

8. Check for smooth operation and for the door to be square in the opening. There should be about 1/8" to 1/4" of space between the lock edge of the door and the jamb. Shim hinges and plane lock edge of door as needed.

9. Install the lock (cutting the bore holes and mortising for the latch and deadbolt as needed). Tip: don't cut all the way through the door with the hole saw -- cut about 2/3 through and then come in from the other side.

10. Clean the door (get all of the dust debris off of the surface of the door)

11. Paint the door. Click here for our guide on how to paint your door. We recommend our paint or any exterior grade acrylic latex paint.